Sunday, November 27, 2011

The Elder Equestrian

From The Elderquestrian Guide
For all Elderquestrians:
Use a mounting block. It is easier on the horse’s back. And if you can, mount from the right side as often as the left. It helps you and the horse (but if you’re like me, having ridden for almost 50 years, mostly mounting from the left even though I knew better, right side mounting is as challenging as learning this computer was!).
If it is difficult for you to mount, or assistance is not available – you can teach your horse to “park out” or stretch his front and hind legs apart (as Saddle Seat horses
do) to make mounting easier. I even have a student whose horse was trained to lie down for her to mount and dismount after her knees were replaced surgically.
Dismount with both feet out of the stirrups – no one should drop down with one foot still in a stirrup (and, OH YES, you should dismount from both sides equally if you can). If the weather is cold, slide down easily after a ride. Your feet will be grateful. Always bend your knees as you land.
SAFETY ALERT – be sure your horse knows how to be mounted and to have you dismount from both sides!
Remember that horses only know what they are used to, have experienced or have been taught. If you surprise him (even a sweet 30 year old gelding) with something he has never known before, without some introductions, he may freak out.
DO NOT YELL AT OR CHASE HIM if a horse DOES freak out. Speak and move calmly. Keep yourself in line with his shoulder, even at a distance. This makes you less threatening and most visible as well as in the safest position for you. If a horse becomes caught in something (the fence, a rope, the clothesline, etc.), you must use caution in any attempt to extricate him. Keep your body on whichever side he is likely to jump away from and if you have several people working on his behalf, try to keep everyone on the same side so he doesn’t have to decide who to run over when he is released. Now, he most likely will just stand there gratefully waiting for you to disconnect all the wire or rope or whatever, BUT, if he does get scared, it can escalate. Horses cannot stand to be trapped. In the wild, it means death.
Whenever you do introduce something new to a horse, do it in stages. If he has never been hosed off with the water hose, just do his forelegs the first few days, gradually moving up and on to his whole body. If you are introducing something, don’t tie him. Have a helper hold him or put the lead rope through the fence (sturdy post) and hold it in your hand without tying. Help him understand.
This is where Elderquestrians have a real advantage. We have learned that THINGS TAKE TIME. Impatience makes you go backwards and you have to start
over. Most of us have learned to take and teach things in stages.

Horses Heal Us

If you can get you out of the way when you come to your horse, he will show you how to shift your position within the field to a place that supports and nurtures your soul. It's all about how you feel and you empower those feelings and they create your reality and your horse is ready to show you how to feel magnificent.

Compassion not Compulsion

In all of our relationships, the light of integrity is held by Compassion. If we consider something other than our own motives and agendas, we can open to living a real life outside of the world of illusion. With animals, we will establish communication instead of domination. With loved ones, we will share our very souls. With humanity, we will become beacons of reason and unconditional love. We will shift ourselves and those who resonate with Nature to a higher kind of love and life where the demoralizing of others is simply not accepted.

be a lamp unto yourself

be a lamp unto yourself